The Kandy Esala Perahera Celebrations – Sri lanka

CGF_6505CGF_6525As the August moon waxes in the Buddhist month of Esala, one of the most important annual Buddhist celebrations takes over in Kandy, Sri Lanka.

The Kandy Esala Perahera celebration is held for 10 nights culminating with the mid summer full moon.  This ceremony, one of the oldest and most amazing Buddhist events, has happened every year since 300 ADCGF_6535CGF_6550CGF_6567CGF_6616CGF_6632CGF_6644CGF_6647CGF_6652

The Festival is held in the city of Kandy to honor the sacred tooth relic of the Buddha.

A replica of the sacred tooth relic (the original is kept and can be seen in the Dalada Maligawa Temple) is displaced in a golden casket and paraded thru the streets of Kandy in a procession of richly decorated elephants (more than 90), fire juggling acrobats, dancers, musicians, drummers, whip crackers, torch bearers lighting the roads, and dignitaries.

Legend says that the Buddha’s tooth was brought to Sri Lanka in the 3rd century AD from India, hidden in a tresses of a princess Hemamali in the 4th century AD.

OUT OF THE TOURISM ROUTES (My second trip to Iran – April 2011)

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“I go to Iran” I say to my friends. “Iran? But is it not dangerous?” they ask. “Not at all” I answer. “It’s the second time I go, but this time I want to do a different route off from the tourists tracks”.

So, together with my friends we decide for a tailored itinerary choosing to visit the North Western Iran, then down to Isfahan and up to North East to finish our trip in the holy city of Mashad.

It was the week after Norooz when we arrived in Tehran. You could still see the signs of the festivity: tables set with the symbols of their feast: specific symbolic items seven of which have names starting with the Farsi letter S (seen) And posters around the streets with Happy Norooz wishes to the population from their Spiritual Leaders and the President.

Although with regret, soon after our arrival, we leave immediately Tehran and start our planned tour.

We first drive towards the Alamut Valley, on the southern slopes of Alboz mountains, to visit the ancient fortresses. Landscapes from the top are really breathtaking. Crouched in an almost invisible way on the rocky ills, there are the ruins of more than 50 fortresses. They used to be the strongholds of medieval religious sects, known also as “Castles of the Assassins”. We visit the Hassan Sabah, the only one still in good conditions.

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SoltaniyehNo less interesting is the next day visit to Soltaniyeh, in the Zanjan province, to the Dome Gonbad-e-Soltaniyeh. With a diameter of 25 mt and 48 mt high, it is considered to be the greatest brick dome in the world, now listed in the Unesco World Heritage.

Driving through villages, where the time seems to stand still, we reach the archaeological site of Takh-el-Soleyman, once the spiritual center of Zoroastrian, the religion in Persia during the Sassanid period. No much remains of the original site, but the scenery and the location in between the mountains make this place really interestiImmagine 061ng.Takht e Soleyman

After the night spent in Takab in a modest hotel, we continue our journey towards Hamadan, a city located on the road to Baghdad and situated on a plateau dominated by Mount Alvad. City of ancient origin formely known as Ectbatana. Here we pay visit to a jewish site, the monument and tomb of Esther, the jewish wife of Xerxes I°, Ahasuerus king The very bad weather conditions do not allows us to visit much of this city so we proceed towards Bisuntun at the slopes of the Zagros Mountains to visit some beautiful bas-reliefs carved into the rock of religious subject and dating back to pre-islamic period.Immagine 087Caravanserraglio BisutunBisutunImmagine 076

Towards evening we arrive in Kermanshah, in a city in celebration and armoured at the same time. Indeed it is preparing for the visit of President Ahmadinejad, who will arrive in town the next day for a rally. Also the hotel we are staying is in fibrillation, it hosts the President delegation, his bodyguards or escorts already arrived one day before.Kermanshah

Kermanshah is a beautiful city enclosed by high rocky mountains, busy but nice and tidy. We visit Tagh-e-Bostan, located in a lovely garden, here you can admire beautiful bas-reliefs and carved niches dating back to the Sassanid period.Immagine 126Immagine 122

We leave Kermanshah, but before taking the road which will lead to our next destination (Chogha Zambil) we ask our driver to make a detour and drive towards the Iraqi border. We arrive till Mehran, which is the village on the Iraqi border, passing through the area where the Iraq-Iran war took place. You can still see the sign of this terrific conflict which lasted 8 years and made an high number of victims among the Iranian population.villaggio confine iraquenoio e irene sul ca

We are thankful to our driver for this unplanned visit and we proceed towards Chogha Zambil to visit the Ziqqurat.

Recognized as Unesco World Heritage, this 5 level pyramid dating back 3000 years is the best example of Alamia architecture in the world.

Immagine 154Io Ziggurat

Our next stop will be Sush, one of the great ancient cities of Iran which was the capital of the Achaemenid. Sush has been of great importance in Iran’s history to rival Persepolis. We visit the castle and the mosque.Immagine 176Immagine 166

We arrive in Khorramabad (Lorestan) for the night. Next morning we visit the Falak-ol Aflak fortress (Shapur Khast fortress). The original building is attributed to the Shapur, the first Sassanian period in the 3rd century AD. The fortress is a monument from the ancient city of Shopur Khast. Important past uses of the fortress are: a treasury for the Badr dynasty in the 11th century – government premises during the Savafid and Qajar dynasties and a military base and political prison during the first and second Pahlavi regimes. Now the castle hosts a very interesting Antropology and Archeology museum which is considered one of the richest museums in Iran.khorram abad castleKhorramabad minaretiKhorramabad stradaKhorramabad veduta

Next destination Isfahan. We arrive at mid afternoon. The beautiful Isfahan, also called “Isfahan nesf-e Jahan” (the half of the world). It is a pleasure to return in this lovely city. The emotion is strong also because this time I will meet with an Iranian girl met on the web: Masomeh. What a wonderful experience!Isfahan cupola

We visit again with pleasure all the places visited the year before: the beautiful Imam square, the mosques, the Ali Qapu palace, the huge bazaar, the oscillating minarets, Jolfa the Armenian quarter and at night the fascinating illuminated bridges on the Zayandeh river.IsfahanImmagine 233

At lunch, in a typical restaurant in the big square, I meet with Masomeh my friend. We immediately recognize each other and embrace as if we knew each other since long time. We spend the day together, we do shopping at bazaar, she would like me to go and meet her family and spend the evening with them. We end our meeting with a drive in a horse drawn cab around the beautiful Imam square. With much regret we say goodbye, promising each other to meet again soon in Iran or in Italy.Isfahan Rest. 1

We are close to the end of our journey. Three more places to visit.

Abyaneh, the charming quaint village once inhabited by the followers of Zoroaster. The village is nestled at foot of Karkas Mountain and crossed by steep and winding small streets made of mud and stone. As evidence of the ancient origins and isolation of this village, the older inhabitants still speak a variety of Farsi missing from centuries from the rest of Iran.Abyaneh AshuraAbyaned veduta

We had already visited it last fall in the beautiful warm autumn colors. This time we visit it in spring, less colourful but always authentic and spectacular. The hotel where we spend the night is characteristic, with lovely view over the village and the owner welcome was very warm and friendly.Abyaneh cupola moscheaImmagine 272

The next morning we leave for Qom, a very short visit, too short to appreciate in full the spirituality of this holy city.Qom 2Qom 7

But time is running short. In the evening we have a flight from Tehran to Mashad, North East Iran, where our Iranian tour will end.

On the road Tehran we still have time to stop in Kashan. And here I will meet another Iranian friend met on the web: Marzieh. We met at Fin Gardens. My God, she is not as I had imagined her! I thought to meet a petite girl but instead Marzieh is veeeeery tall!!! I soon recognized her beautiful light eyes! She had prrepared just for me some delicious cakes, which I shared soon after with my tour friends. A very short meeting but very pleasant!Marzieh1

*******WHO KNOCKS AT MY DOOR? *******

While walking along the streets of Kashan, have a look at the doors of the houses. You will see that some of them have two clappers, one for men and another for women. These two different models produce different noises, so who was inside the house knew in advance if to knock at the door was a man or a woman and so decide who should open the door. This was very important in a society where the women lived in “Purdah” (a cultural tradition preventing men from seeing women)

We arrived in Mashad the holy city late in the evening. An important place of pilgrimage for Shia Muslims. Mashad is the most important religious holy cite in Iran because of the impressive and magnificent Haram-e-Razavi. Mashad was a small village called Sanabad, but after the burial tomb of Imam Reza (Ali Ibn Musa – (8th Imam) it became a place of pilgrimage and its name changed with Mashad which means “place of martyrdom”. The view of this place is breathtaking. You can feel the spirituality of this site walking around the yards. It’s an emotional experience also for those who are not of Muslim faith.

Mashhad night 6Mashhad night 3

**** MASHTEE ****

As for the faithful who complete the pilgrimage to Mecca receive the title of HAJJI, those who make the pilgrimage to Mashad have the right to add the title “Mashtee” to their names.

We conclude our Mashad tour visiting the tomb of Ferdowsi, an important Iranian poet. Ferdowsi is considered the saver of the Farsi language, the language he choosed for his poems in a period when Farsi was in danger of being replaced by the Arabic language.Mashhad at night

Here ends our second trip to Iran: a journey full of charm and authenticity, a different Iran, very particular, mystical in some ways but an Iran that never disappoints you!

I will conclude quoting the verses from the famous poem “SHAHNAMEH” of Ferdowsi:

“……. I have suffered during these 30 years, but I have revived the Iranians with the Persian language, I will not die because I will still be alive, as I have sown the seeds of this language ……..”

Immagine 366

KHODA HAFEZ IRAN!

Jambo Jambo – My Safari in Tanzania

IMG_1301Traveling teaches you  many things : to know,  to discover, to learn.

After returning from a trip, what is most fondly remembered are the emotions you have experienced.

Mine is a  journey in the african parks but with a touch of the unusual,  a contact with the most authentic and remote Africa.IMG_0996

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Our route leads through the endless Serengeti savannah dotted with acacia trees where you can find thousand of animals.

Through Lake Manyara with its birds: pellicans, cormorants and pink flamingos.

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The Ngorongoro crater in an unique and primordial environment. CGF_3109

And the important Oldubai gorges, an healthy environment, rich of charm where, among its rocks were found the remains of an Australopithecus.CGF_3943

But whereas on the one hand animals and landscapes lord it, on the other  there is the hospitality, friendliness and kindness of its people.

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Their friendly “Jambo Jambo” to every encounter, their smiles, their desire to communicate with you, coming from another “world”.  And their  “Acuna Matata” (no problem) in front of your mistakes when trying to speak with them in  a language unfamiliar to you, make your trip even more memorable!!!

And finally a Swahili proverb:

HABA  NA  HABA  HUJAZA  KIBABA”  (means  Doing things a bit at a time will get you to where you want to be)

KWA  HERI  TANZANIA !!!!

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ANTARCTICA – a black and white dream

An unusual cruise on the route of the pioneers of 100 years ago.  Antarctica, 1000 km beyond the end of the known world, beyond the far end of South America.

Everything starts from Buenos Aires, Argentina.  Direct flight from Italy.  We come from our cold winter to the scorching heat of south american summer, because this is the only suitable time to visit Antarctica.

Short stop to take breath and then further down to Ushuaia, the door to Antarctica situated on the Beagle channel.

Ushuaia

Today Antarctica belongs to no one and to the entire world.  A treaty between nations rules the presence of teams of the scientific bases and an agreement between tour operators has led to the creation of a committee of self-control to prevent a wild invasion of tourism in Antarctica.

The Akademik Sergey Vavilov vessel will be our ship, a russian icebreaker put it back and adapted as cruise ship.

Ushuaia Vavilov

Everything was pleasant and appropriately transformed to accomodate demanding travellers. It’s now waiting for us in the dock of Ushuaia.

We embark, we are assigned our cabin;  it’s afternoon and we are ready to sail.

Sergey Vavilov

On board with us there is a team of experts, their job will be to explain the secrets of this world.  An ornithologist, an anthropologist, a geologist,   a IAATO inspector to check that no one dares to do the least harm to nature and animals.  A doctor, always on the move between one cabin and the other, always ready and available to our calls and needs.  Then there are the pilots of the zodiac landing boats used in our daily excursions.

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We pass the legendary Cape Horn.  Then the Drake passage, hours and hours of open sea, strong wind and waves meters high,  but the Vavilov resists, it is used to face extreme sailing conditions.

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Joining us in this crossing, in the sky there are albatross, sea eagles and other rare seabirds.  And in the water, whales, orcas, penguins.

Then the sea becomes calm as a lake and around us we see a landscape in black and white. The first iceberg appears at the horizon.  But it’s the infinite silence that impresses you most and which wraps up everything.DSC_8687

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For days and days we see a succession of natural and breathtaking sceneries:  mountain peaks and untouched glaciers but also plains, expanses of snow, deep fjords, beaches, volcanos, icebergs, icebergs and again icebergs of all shapes and sizes.

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Two excursions a day, one in the morning and one in the afternoon, 3 hours each on board of the zodiacs.

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We leave our ship and fully equipped with boots, parkas, gloves and hats we take place in the zodiacs and go to explore this magic world.  The first landing is as fascinating as the last.  The meeting with the busy penguins that come near to you at tens is exciting.  Would like to touch them, caress, cuddle!  No, absolutely prohibited! You must not disturb or frighten them.  Unforgettable days!DSC_8736

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Other excursions allow us the sighting of many whales, seals and other Antarctic species.DSC_9170

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We visit a Russian base still active in Antarctica, we speak with the Russian personnel involved in the mission.  They are doing researches on the ozone hole.  They stay there for six months, by rotation,  longer it is not possible, they confess!Antartica 14

It is not only the charm of the distance, the excitement of arriving so far, not just the feeling of being out of this world to make you tremble with emotion when you step on this continent, but it’s realizing all this and you don’t think it true to be here as well!

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Let’s go to Libya!

A decision taken without much thinking!  We know already the Algerian Akakus, so why not visiting the Libyan one and make a comparison?

So here we are, dealing with visas, airline tickets and itinerary, in a week or so we are ready to leave.

This happens at the end of January 2011 and despite the mass uprising in neighbouring Arab countries it was not expected that this would have happened in Libya in the so near future.

The Libyan Airlines flight from Milan was full of people, mostly men, who went to Libya for working purposes.  Nothing was in the air, nothing presupposed such an imminent and dramatic occurence of turmoils.

Upon our arrival in Tripoli all was calm and quiet.  At Tripoli airport we got thru customs formalities with no problem at all and we soon obtained our entry visa.

Our Libyan adventure would soon began.

Libya is known as a country of starling contrasts and magnificent scenery.  A journey of fascination among the Mediterranean sea and the Sahara desert.  IMG_0068IMG_0206

A country that shelters some of the most interesting archeological ruins from roman and punic periods.IMG_0124

Tripoli the “White bride of the Mediterranean” where the minarets of the medina, the vibrant souks and the charm of the ancient city mingle with memories of Italian colonial rule.  IMG_0193

A memory still alive especially among older people.  During the Italian colonization Tripoli saw a large urban development.  The city was equipped with many facilities such as roads, railways, schools, banks such as to give to the city a modern look.  IMG_0181

Photos of Tripoli during the colonial era are hung everywhere in restaurants, shops and coffee shops, as to remember this positive past period.  IMG_0195

We visit Sabratha and Leptis Magna, sparkling on the sea, in a scene of great suggestion:  IMG_0124IMG_0113

two beautiful cities on the coast give us back all the charm of a distant era when the power of the Roman city  was expressed in great architectural forms.IMG_0070IMG_0166

And the beauty of the desert, where we literally sail into a sea of sand topped by high waves in a succession of soft shapes, breathtaking ups and downs and sharp edges. 

Nasser, our skilled Garamante driver, often drops out of the car, he explores the dunes, thinks and values what is the best track to go up or down the duneIMG_0331and give us the maximum emotion!

The Libyan Tadrat Akakus, mountainous, crossed by fossils rivers that have created, over the centuries, sandstone canyons on which walls men have left a real rock art gallery.

And then the lakes  Gabraoun,  Mafo just announced by clumps of palm trees and set among majestic dunes.IMG_0354

A journey thru gentle contrasts:  from warm wind of the desert to the sea breeze of the coast, from golden yellow sand to the blue turquoise of the Mediterranean!  All this is Magic Libya!

We leave Libya with regret, we would have liked to stop longer and visit it more thoroughly.  We plan to return soon.

But immediately after our return…… it happened!   We are all with you Libya and wish you a better future.   We will come again one day!

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EXPLORING INDONESIA – My expedition to Irian Jaya

I cannot call it trip and I cannot call it journey because this is a proper expedition that leaves a sign in your mind,  in regions difficult to access, without any infrastructure.  An encounter with people absolutely primitive due to their complete isolation.  A not easy approach with peaceful ethnic groups wary of strangers but that slowly start to touch.
A wild blooming nature, sometimes insurmountable.  In these impassable paths we have walked to reach ethnic groups that have rarely been in contact with our world:  the Dani, the Jali, the Tiom.  We got to know their traditions and rituals, habits of life, their homes.
la famiglia Dani
To fully explore these lands and these peoples  we move only on foot, helped by 17 local porters, a trekking extremely tiring, days of walking from village to village, crossing valleys and mountains, rivers and forests.
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We arrive in Jayapura (Irian Jaya) from Jakarta.  It’s a short stop to relax and recover strength after an exhausting plane trip from Europe.
The next day another plane will take us to Wamena situated in a great valley in the center of Irian Jaya and from here our trekking will begin.io aereo
 
In Wamena, a small city, we have just enough time to organize our trekking:  meet with the local guide, buy all kind of food, vegetables, eggs, live poultry and find and negotiate with the 17 local porters who will be with us for all the expedition and will carry on their heads and shoulders our bags and all boxes of food.
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The next morning we are ready to go, 7 of us, friends from long time, accustomed to travel together and to stand one another.  Thanks God two of them are doctors!!!! Never know!!
io attraverso ruscelloThe trekking begins, our trekking shoes are brand new, our trousers nice and clean from laundry.  With backpacks on our shoulders and cameras ready to film we start our adventure.io attraverso fiume
The first tribe we meet after a day’s walk are the Dani.  We stop at the village of Sogokmo and we are welcomed by the chief village.  We are guests in their homes where we will sleep.  They allow us to use their “kitchen” to cook our dinner.
 
The night is cold, we sleep with our clothes on in our sleeping bags.  Here I have my first nasty close encounter with fleas that will accompany me for the entire trip (and beyond).
 
On waking up the next morning, we have a quick wash at the river, a hot tea and off we go again thru valleys to find other villages.io e pepi alla fontenoi in fila
 
The Dani people look rather primitive as they are wearing almost nothing except for some decorations on the body.
Men wear only the “koteka” a  sort of sheath for the penis.guerriero lancia
 
Women wear on their hips short skirts made of grass or bark fiber;  when outside the house they cover their backs, from head to thighs,  with a net also made of grass and they use it as a bag to carry the baby or the little big or to put vegetables.
 
They live in huts made of wood capable of retaining the warmth of a small fire and to protect the cold nights.
Women and children live in a separate hut from men.
 
Women use to embellish their faces and bodies with floral white paintings, while women who have just become widow have to paint the full body with yellow paint and keep it on until it rubs out.
 
We continue our trekking thru other Dani villages of Kurima and Tugma always staying and enjoying the local hospitality.io scaletta
 
We reach the village of Wesagalep and meet with the Jaly tribes that nothing differ in clothing from the Dani tribes.
We are hosted by a Jaly chief in his village and for the occasion a little pig is killed and cooked in our honour.  We take part to the ceremony and of course the banquet:  an unforgettable experience!.
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The days are a succession of moves, new villages, new encounters with men, women, children and old people.  We shake hands and they try to converse with us.  But even our local guide cannot help us:  their dialects are so different.
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We have the opportunity to participate to a performace of men fighting.  Their body totally decorated, their heads adorned with various types of feathers and caps, necklaces around their necks and long arrows and axes.  They fight to prove how strong they are and to show their ability to fight.
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We return to Wamena really stressed out and filthy!!! The first need is a hot bath, very hot indeed, but here is a utopia, we have to wash with cold water.
Mt flea bytes start to irritate me a lot.  My body is covered with red spots, I am itching all over.
Home Sweet Home, where are you!!
 
It has been really difficult, fatiguing, uncomfortable but what we saw and experienced will forever remain in our minds.  A world of awesomeness and strong intense emotions,  forgetting for some days that somewhere there is
“civilization”.
 
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MYANMAR – The essence of oriental sweetness

Myanmar is the name to describe the homeland which the British called Burma.io libero birdy
Visiting Myanmar is a succession of beautiful landscapes, an occasion with a different world for those who love art, nature and religion.
1 Shwedagon
The plane trip was long but finally we reached Yangon, the capital city.  We are tired but fatigue does not stop us and we start immediately to visit the great Shwedagon Pagoda, the most important place of worship for Buddhists and symbol for the country with its huge golden dome.  The weather is unsettled, rain, sun, rain, humid:  it’s nice to feel the freshness of the marble under your bare feet while we look around the pagoda.  So many families, so many children and many women with flowers to offer, such a mystical atmosphere!!5 pagoda d'oro4 cupole shwedagon
2 cupola d'oro Yangon
We get up early the next morning and after a drive of about 200 km. we reach Kyaiktyio mountain, famous for the “Golden Rock” an holy place of pilgrimage for Burman.  To reach the Golden Rock, situated on top of the mountain,  under a torrential rain we jump on a big lorry with all other pilgrims praying and singing while approaching the holy site.  camion s acquazzone
The Golden Rock is huge, all covered with golden leaves and placed in balance on the mountain edge.  In the middle of the Rock there is a small golden pagoda containing the Buddha’s relic. golden rock con monaci Ordinary people and monks gather to pray and make offers:  fruits, flowers, incense
We come down the holy mountain on foot, a long walk but pleasant and gives us the opportunity to meet and talk with local villagers
It’s 6.00 am the next morning and we are already at the airport waiting for our plane.  Next destination the Bagan Plain situated in the middle of Myanmar.pagoda
Bagan is considered one of the most important monuments of Asian architecture.  Currently only 1000 pagodas are left from the original 3000 built during 1000 and 1200AD.2 pagode Bagan
 
We are stunned by the beauty we are surrounded:  this large plain on the Irrawady river covered by hundreds of Pagodas.  We climb on top of one of them and wait for the beautiful sunset!!!Bagan dopo temporale
But off we go again, our trip is long and full of emotions and by car we move towards Mandalay, the visit of the Holy mountain Popa is waiting for us.
At bare feet we start our ascent, a long flight of steps to the top of the mountain. 
All the way long we have to struggle against the many monkeys that live the mountain and try to come up to us for food!
Finally we reach the top,  sweating with heat and fatigue, our feet filthy!!! We visit the temple that hosts the tutelary deity of the entire country.  It has been a tough excursion but worthwhile,  the panorama from the top is breathtaking!montagna Popa
The next day in flight we reach Kengtung close to the Laos border.  Here, spread in the hills,  we visit various villages of different ethnic groups called “the Golden Triangle tribes”, the land of Opium Lords.io con bimbi Lasudonna Akha e bambinodonna akha con vasodonna birmana con pipa
On a trekking we visit three very isolated villages:  these ethnic groups have preserved their traditions and beautiful costumes, in particular the Akha tribes with their caps covered with silver coins and the Ann Lisu called also “Black Teeth” for the habit to chew betel,  and the Lahu.donna denti neri 1
They live in the so called “Long houses” a long constructions , all together 3 or even 4  families.   They do not see much tourism here:  we give balloons, sweets and pens to the children but also, thanks God one of our Group is a doctor, we can help an old men not feeling well,  examining him and giving some medicines.vecchia Akha o chi min
They are all very happy to take photographs with us and when we live the village they take us half way down!!!
Our next destination:  the Inle Lake situated in the middle of the country. 
We sail the lake on board of long boats.  The scenery around is spectacular:  the lone Intha fishermen rowing their boats moving the oar with their leg;  the floating gardens in the middle of the lake where they grow all kind of vegetables;  the big bow-nets hanging outside the fishermen houses;  and the children waving to you from the balcony of their palafitte houses.pescatore che rema c piederematore ortofamiglia finestra palafitta
We are close to the end of our journey.  Another stop in Yangon to complete our visit:  the old city, few more pagodas, some shopping.panorama cupolepalme con cupole
 
Our luggages are full……….full of all kind of souvenirs we bought around our trip but also full of happy memories of this magnificent holiday!!!!villaggio palafitte 2vogatore nell'ortovillaggio palafitte 13 donne in costumeorti galleggiantimonastero gatti

Welcome to Mali!

mussa al buioA country that offers a wide variety of environments and different people.  If you want to enjoy the best of it follow me in this short but rich journey.
We start our trip from Bamako, capital city of Mali.  Moussa , our Italian speaking guide, meets us at the airport.
  On board of our 4×4 vehicle we proceed through villages inhabited by the Bambara ethnic group people and we arrive in Segou, the second city of Mali, on the Niger river.

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We then visit the beautiful town of Djenné founded in the IX century on the river Bani, an affluent of Niger river. With its Arab/African style quarters and the spectacular mosque hand-moulded with clay, straw and dung  considered one of the most beautiful mosques of all Africa, Djenné deserves the name of “Queen of the Delta”.moschea controlucemoschea djenne 1
We cannot miss the navigation on the river Niger, the soul of this country and see how the Bozo fishermen still live and how they still work and preserve the smoked fish.  We visit the colorful market and have lunch in a traditional place.barca gente porto
We proceed towards Bandiagara, capital of Dogon villages and here we start our trekking and visit the scenic villages of the Dogon people perched among the rocks of the great cliff of Bandiagara.The stone houses camouflage among the rocks.  I need the help of Moussa in carrying my backpack while we climb the stone track which leads to the villages.
Only on foot you can visit their remote villages and only on foot you can walk into their world and live at their own pace.io e mussa in golaio e mussa in salita
The Dogon is the country’s most isolated and untouched ethnic group still tied to the ancestral rhythms of life.capanne paglia nroccia
We are enchanted by their curious typical houses “Toguna” which means “house of words”, by the colorful and bustling markets and the hospitality of people isolated by rich in culture.
We continue thru the Senogondo plain visiting the nomad camps of Peul ethnic tribes whose main activity for centuries is cattle-breeding.mandria buoi

We pass the border and enter in the neighbouring Burkina Faso to end our journey in Ouagadougou, the capital city of Burkina.
A fascinating world, full of sounds and colours, a kaleidoscope of people, traditions and cultures.
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villaggiocapanne paglia Continue reading

Iceland

CGF_2990 bisCGF_3299Iceland, a land with unforgettable landscapes that follow one another and change very rapidly due to an unimaginable volcanic frenzy.

Sometimes you can even doubt to be on the Earth Planet and you also wonder if the geological era has perhaps changed.

Vast expanses of ice, deep fjords, hot springs of an unusual milky blue, gysers: hot springs that periodically give rise to powerful jets of warm water mixed with steam. One of the most fascinating natural events that can be seen.

But also fumaroles, bubbling mud, deserts of black sand, beautiful formations of basaltic columns and menacing volcanos still active.DSC02143

And the soft and thick moss covering the lava, majestic waterfalls rumbling and CGF_5626unforgettable. But also birds, seals, whales and beautiful colorful flowers.

If  you go in the right season you will be able to see the marvellous spectacle of the “sun at midnight”an ephemeral phenomenon, wonderful, amazing. For us, not Icelander, the continued presence of the sun in the middle of the night has something magical, the light that spreads in those particular moments is something unreal!CGF_3514

This is Iceland, a land of extremes and of contrasts! A unique destination for those who love nature and solitude!

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“On the Silk Road”

I was particularly excited and curious to make this journey.  An important route thru Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Xinjiang and last, but not least, Pakistan, the Land of Pure.

But the greatest thrill was to return for the third time to the intriguing city of Peshawar.

It would have been a journey of magnificent landscapes, passes almost inacessible with peaks set against a deep blue sky, boundless steppes.  And the Karakoram highway, a 750km long road between the peaks and the highest mountains in the world. The Nanga Parbat, the Khunjerab pass with its spectacular road, one of the most impervious spots of the ancient silk road.

Off we go then!  Leaving Italy towards Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan to visit Qoqand in the enchanting rich Ferghana Valley and Andjan, birth place of Babur the first Mogul Emperor.  From Andjan our journey takes us to Osh and then Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgizstan, situated between Kazakhstan and the Tien Shan chain mountains.

Our journey proceeds thru spectacular places which skirt the Pamir mountains, the roof of the world. We stop in Naryn for the night and we sleep the 4 of us in a typical yurta tent.  What an exciting and cold experience!

The next morning, after a typical local breakfast, we start our drive on a road flanked with plateaus and snowy mountains to reach Kashgar in the Takla Makan desert. Kashgar’s history spans over 2000 years and its importance comes from its strategic position.

Its Sunday market it’s spectacular, an experience that only Kashgar can offer. A fascinating mix of ethnic groups such as Kirghiz, Chinese, Kurds, Turk Mongolian in its typical costumes and caps.  Here you can buy almost everything from sheep to horses, food and any kind of fancy goods.  Trade remains a bygone style where the entire community gathers at the world’s liveliest market.

As we proceed towards the Karakul lake at 3700 mt the scenery is incredible and we can admire the great amphitheatre of the Kongur chain mountains and the breathtaking Muz Tagh Ata (7569 mt) glacier.

We arrive at the border city of Taxkorgan in the Cinese Xinjiang Uygur.  After customs formalities, which take quite a long time, we leave Taxkorgan and thru the Khunjerab pass (4700 mt) we finally reach Karimabad in PAKISTAN!  Here we meet Mehrab Khan (uncommon name for this country!!!!!!) our Paki guide, with the 2 Land Rover waiting for us.  Our Pakistani Adventure starts!!

We first visit the Hunza Valley with its small characteristics villages surrounded by huge glaciers.  We proceed towards Skardu Valley and Shyok  Valley to visit Kaplu and the famous Baltoro glacier.  Then back towards Gilgit passing by the majestic Nanga Parbat.   Thru the beautiful scenarios of the Shandur Pass we enter Chitral Valley with the great panoramas of Hindu Raj and Hindu Kush.  We stop 2 days in Chitral and visit Bamburet and Birir villages where we meet with the Kafiri Kalash people who seem to be descendent from Alexander the Great.  Women and girls are dressed in their colourful local dresses, their hair is blonde and they have beautiful blue eyes!  These people still maintain their culture, traditions and animistic beliefs.  It’s with great sorrow that we leave these beautiful places and the lovely people!   But our journey is close to its end.  Down the Lowari Pass and we arrive in Peshawar.

Peshawar, a striking, animated city, an important commercial crossroads of Central Asia.  The ancient part of the city, more crowded and fascinating, it’s a labyrinth of narrow roads, shops and the extraordinary bazaar full with all kind of things.  I spent most of my time at the Afghan bazaar buying all sort of things from old tea pots, to tea trays, jars, carpets, always assisted by Mehrab, our guide, who tried to negotiate  the best price for me!  I was fascinated by the Afghan vendors!

Goodbye Peshawar, I wonder if I will see you again!!!!

A quick stop on the road at Darra to have a look at a weapon shop and then off to Islamabad airport.   Lahore is waiting to say goodbye  to us with its splendour.  We have just enough time to visit again the Mogul fort, the Badshahi and Wazir Khan mosques and the Shalimar Gardens.

This is a journey I will never forget and I promised to myself that, sooner or later, I will return to Pakistan, a country that has a special place in my heart!

Khuda Hafiz Pakistan!