India Madhya Pradesh: in search of the tiger!

Primary scope of our visit to Madhya Pradesh was the visit to Bandhavgarh National Park (known also as Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve) hoping to be able during our three Jeep Safaris to spot and photograph the tiger.

Very early morning, 6 am, at the Reserve Gate waiting for the opening.
It’s really very cold in the morning in the park. Need blankets to cover you up!

Cradled in the picturesque hills of Central India, the Tiger Reserve is one of the best places to see wild Royal Bengal tigers. The Reserve has the highest tiger density compared to any other India’s Reserves.

Coming closer to the Bengal tiger in its natural habitat is a magical moment, a real great experience to live and you will no doubt feel goosebumps!!!!

The Reserve is spread over 1100 sq. km. including the buffer zones. The altitude the park lies between 400 to 800 meters.

Buffer zone, breakfast after Jeep Safari.

A part from the tiger population, the area is also rich in biodiversity with more than 30 species of mammals, 260 species of birds, 70 species of butterflies.

But Madhya Pradesh has, besides the Tiger Reserve Parks, other interesting places one must visit. One of them is KHAJURAHO !

Khajuraho is home to various Hindu and Jain temples built during the Chandela dynasty in the 10th and 11th centuries. Of the 85 temples constructed during that period, 22 still exist within an area of about 6sq km2. All temples were rediscovered in the 1850’s after being neglected for centuries.

The splendor of the intricate statues is one of the reasons that makes it a popular and much appreciated site to visit.

The temples of Khajuraho are magnificent examples of the Nagara style of temples. The carvings seem to be predominantly about Hindu deities and mythology. Architectural style also follows Hindu traditions. The carvings reflect the four goals (Purusartha) of life in Hinduism: Dharma (righteousness), Kama (love, desire), Artha (wealth), Moksha (liberation). 

Erotic images are also very common in the temple. These sculptures are believed to reflect the idea of female beauty and fertility.

The Khajuraho group of Monuments has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986 and is considered one of the “seven wonders” of India.

But also GWALIOR and ORCHAA need special attention

Gwalior, celebrated as the “City of Temples” is famous for its palaces and religious sites. It is rich in architectural marvels. The Fort, situated 100 m. above from the town is the main attraction. Standing on a steep mass of sandstone, the Fort dominates the city and is its most significant monument. A steep road winds upwards the Fort, flanked by statues of the Jainism religion.

Around the walls of Gwalior Fort, Jain temples create unique monuments groups. The Gopachal rock-cut Jain monuments, called Gopachal Parvat Jain monuments are a group of rock-cut carvings dated back between the 7th and 15th centuries during the Tamar dynasty. The caves where the carvings are created, vary in dimension, some ave very small but others are very deep. On the walls you can see different representations of Jain followers such as deities or the Tirthamkars, the Jainist prophets succeeded during the hystorical cycles to reveal Jainism to the mankind. Many of the statues however were defaced and destroyed under the orders of the Muslim Emperor Babur of the Mogul Dynasty in the 16th century.

ORCHAA: Where the whispers of medieval history can be heard!

Orchaa literally means “hidden place”. Founded in the 16th century by Bundela Rajput chief, Orchaa is an historical town on the banks of the Betwa river.  It’s known as the city of palaces because of the many forts and temples. 

Orchaa has also 14 cenotaphs situated by the river, that serve as memorial to Orchaa Bundela rulers.

SANCHI is a famous world heritage site that is known for housing the stupas that contain leftovers pf Buddha. The great Stupa in Sanchi was specially made by Emperor Ashoka.

MANDU in an ancient city, now called Mandav, located in the Dar district. This fortress town on a rocky outcrop, about 100 km far from Indore, is famous and celebrated for its architecture. Due to its strategic position and natural defenses, it was an important military outpost and its military past can be seen by the circuit of battlemented wall of about 37 km with 12 gateways.

It has been an interesting trip in a State of India, Madhya Pradesh, new to us. As for the past trips in India we could once again appreciate the beauty of temples and monuments but above all the kindness and hospitality of Indian people. 

NAMASTE’

Haridwar, the holy city on the Ganga river

Namastè and welcome to Haridwar, one of the seven sacred cities in India situated in Utterkhand. Haridwar means “Gateway to Vishnu” and is located where the sacred river Ganga enters the Indo-Gangatic plains.

Dotted with temples and ashrams, Haridwar is a beautiful Hindu temple town and a major pilgrimage centre. It is believed that taking a dip in the holy Ganga waters not only gives a sense of purity but also relieves you of all your sins.

“Pit-stop” in Quebec, Canada

It was pleasant, after so many years, to visit Canada again. A short visit, however, focusing mainly on Montreal for a family meeting.

Anyway I found many things changed also here, some in better and some worst. But cities and villages are always fascinating and there is always something new to discover, something that you missed previous time you came.

Jardin Botanique, Montreal
Place Jacques Cartier, Montreal
Downtown Montreal
Enjoying smoked meat at Dunns Restaurant Downtown Montreal
Concordia University, Montreal. Monument paying homage to the people of the six nations known as the Iroquois Confederacy who controlled this region of the Americas.
Montreal, Vieu Port
Centre Eaton Montreal
Enjoying Beaver Tails
Montreal Parc Olimpique
Quebec City, Chateau Frontenac
Quebec City Statue a Samuel de Champlain
Quebec City, Monument Alphonse et Dorimme Desjardins
Quebec City, enjoying Poutine, Quebec local dish
Quebec City, Place des Armes
Village of Saint Agathe

India – Colourful Punjab

A long desired visit to this fascinating area of India, the Punjab, nicknamed the land of Five Rivers (Punj = five + Aab = water) located in northwestern India.

Scope of the trip was the visit to Amritsar which is one of the most ancient and fascinating cities of India, important seat of Sikh history, culture and religious sites. The most famous of them all is the Golden Temple, a place of prayer for million of Sikh devotees coming from India and all parts of the world. Known as Harmandir Sahib (Temple of God) the temple is the most significant shrine in Sikhism. It is considered not only a religious place of the Sikhs but also a symbol of human brotherhood and equality.  750 kilos of pure gold cover the upper floors of The Golden Temple with has a square plan, four entrances and a circumambulation path around the pool. This pool, surrounding the temple, is also called “the pool of nectar of Immortality” and it is said that taking a bath in the holy waters has healing and purifying properties.

The Sikh scripture (the Guru Granth Sahib), the holy book, is housed within the Golden Temple. Sikhs consider this holy book to be the “last guru” and it is part of ceremonies and visits.  The Sikh scripture is seated on the lower square floor for about 20 hours every day and then placed in a proper bedroom for the rest of the day. The moving of the holy book comes with elaborate ceremonies followed by many devotees.

All visitors to the Temple, rich or poor, are invited for a free meal in the Temple Langar. Food served is given to all regardless of caste or religion as a gesture of equality.  All visitors sit on the floor next to each other, no matter rich or poor, Sikh or Christian, or Muslim, to have the vegetarian meal, every day, any time, 24 hours a day.  

Golden Temple Lagar

HOLLA MOHALLA Festival – Celebrating the martial traditions of Sikhs

Located in a picturesque area by the Sutley river, Anandpur Sahib is the foremost sacred religious sites of the Sikhs and the location where the Holla Mohalla festival takes place. The festival takes place on the first of the lunar month of “chait” which usually falls in March.

During the days of the festival you can witness the religious processions passing thru the city. Sikhs are dressed in their traditional martial costumes, they display their skills in archery, sword fencing, horse riding and shooting. Battles are enacted and ancient cannons fired. Holla Mohalla is the occasion for the Sikhs to reaffirm fraternity and brotherhood and reminding people of “valour and defence readyness” a concept very dear to the 10th Guru of the Sikhs. Recently the Indian Government had accorded Holla Mohalla the status of a “National Festival”.

“Nishan Sahib” symbol of Sikh Sovereignty and Identity

ATTARI WAGAH BORDER – The final frontier

Not distant from Amritsar, about 28 km, there is the Attari Wagah border to Pakistan. You can’t miss the interesting and exciting experience of “Beating the Retreat” ceremony. The lowering of the flags ceremony at the Attari Wagah Border is a daily military practice that the security forces of India and Pakistan have jointly followed since 1959.

India side stadium packed crowded

Shaking hands before closing gates

Socotra, South Yemen – The Galapagos of the Indian Ocean

Socotra is an island in the middle of the Arabian Sea and belongs to Yemen. The island stands on coral banks and probably in the past was connected with the African and Arabian mainlands.

Socotra inhabitants differ from mainland Arabs and are believed to be a mixture of Greek, Portuguese, African and Arabs. Their language is a version of the ancient Himyarite language which was spoken in pre Islamic Arabia for many centuries. They are engaged in fishing and in small part in agriculture, nomads keep cattle and goats are very common.

Saeed, our guide by a beautiful Desert Rose, the Bottle tree

Socotra flora includes several species and among them the two most important are the Dragon Blood Tree and the Bottle shape tree, the desert rose.

The Socotran Bottle Trees, with its beautiful pink flowers, are the most mysterious and bizarre trees, they grow only here, having roots in mostly hard limestone rock on vertical cliffs and mountain plateaus.

The particular shape of these trees are linked two special drought adaptations to retain as much water as possible during adverse periods.

Men in Socotra wear the above kind of skirts called Ma’awiz, made from patterned fabrics. It is worn around the waist like a wrap and it is fixed on the body by folding the top. Some people wear usual belts or Jambia belts like in inland Yemen.

The Dragon Blood Tree with its peculiar umbrella shape, grows in rocky grounds and on high locations. The red resin which is obtained from this tree is considered till today be a panacea and used for many purposes: lacquering wood, in medicine, in cosmetics and in dyes. The tree produces also a red honey, which is considered the best honey in the world with many health benefits.

Dragon Blood tree branches from bottom to top

Socotra is a paradise, hard to reach, but the fatigue to reach it is indeed worthwhile. It has been an unforgettable trip to this pristine island. Well organized and tailor made trip according to our needs and interests, the 15 days tour gave us the opportunity to visit all spots in the island and discover the culture and traditions of Socotri people. We never felt unsafe during all tour, also when in remote spots and alone. Socotri people are very friendly, generous and curious to know about you and your culture.

The tourism season is quite short, from October to beginning of May. On other months strong winds, dust winds, monsoon rains make the island impossible to visit.

The limited adventurous eco tourism, not mass tourism, allowed Socotra to remain relatively unspoiled in comparison to many other islands in the world.

Endemic plants and animals can be found all over Socotra, sometimes uniquely found in the highlands or in the mountains. Socotra is very important for the biodiversity conservation because of its rich flora and fauna. Out of 825 plant species, 308 are endemic; this means that these species can be found only in Socotra and nowhere else in he world.

Socotra was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008 due to its rich flora and fauna most of which, as said, is endemic.

We appreciated the beautiful breathtaking landscapes, sand dunes, lagoons, caves and cliffs, forests and long large beaches.

Qalansiyah beach and our camp site by the beach

Enjoying white sand dunes

Children in Socotra are friendly and curious but humble and mannerly. Never pressing you to buy little things they have nor asking for money. They have beautiful smiles and deep eyes.

Abdullah, the cave man in Detwah lagoon. A 2 hours walk from our camping site in Qalansiyah took us to Detwah lagoon where in the morning we had to pay visit to Abdullah, better known as the Cave Man. Abdullah’s family lives in Qalansiyah village, but, he says, he prefers to spend most of his time in this quiet cave. We add: this allows him to gain some money during the tourism season, as tourists flock to his cave to meet him and enjoy a nice plate of fresh fish food. This excursion is part of the Socotra trip and all tourists who visit Qalansiyah want to go there and meet him.

Abdullah in his cave

Socotra Food: most of our meals were based on fresh fish, usually bought early in the morning directly from fisherman. Fresh fish, delicious, is accompanied by rice and sauce with potatoes and vegetables. Rarely we had meat, and when if it was goat always accompanied by rice. Tea is always available at any time of the day. You will always find a hot thermos of prepared tea ready to drink.

More views of beautiful Socotra

THANK YOU SO MUCH SOCOTRA FOR YOUR HOSPITALITY AND FRIENDSHIP

MERA’AH DE ALLAH SOCOTRA!

Bangladesh – Land of Smiles

Cox’s Bazar Fish Market

Bangladesh is situated in the fertile plains of the Gange river delta of the Bay of Bengal, hence its name meaning “Country of Bengal”.

It is famous for being home to the world largest river delta formed by the Brahmaputra and the Ganges rivers; for the Bengali tigers in the Sundarbans (a mangrove and swampland in the delta); for the longest natural sea beach located in Cox’s Bazar (150 km. long); for the Malnicherra Tea Estate, the oldest tea garden in the subcontinent; and last, but not least, for the ancient historical city of Panam Nagar.

Bangladesh is far from being a volatile or dangerous country and Bangladeshi citizens are some of the most hospitable and friendly people you’ll ever meet.

DHAKA is the Capital and largest city of Bangladesh. It’s the 6th most populated city in the world with a population of approximately 9 Million residents within the city limits and 21 Million residents in Greater Dhaka area. Dhaka emerged as a cosmopolitan city during the Moghul Empire. It’s a hub for trade and culture. Once upon a time called the City of Mosques and the Venice of the East and nowadays also known as the Rickshaw Capital of the world, as there are over 500,000 cycle rickshaws running on its roads. Dhaka streets and rivers are filled with colorful chaos. Being part of the Bengal plain, the city is bounded by 4 rivers. The origin of name Dhaka is uncertain. Probably the name comes from the Dhak trees which are very common in the area, but it could also have origin from an instrument the “Dhak”, or from a Hindu goodness Dhakeshwari whose temple is located in the south western part of the city.

DHAKA GARMENT WORKERS: the Readymade Garment Industry —

Special mention goes to Garment industry: the Garment and textile business is the number one industry in Bangladesh, accounting for 80% of the country’s export. Bangladesh is second only to China. Most of the nation 4500 garment factories are concentrated around the capital Dhaka and attract thousands of rural residents in search of jobs and better life for their families. Many global brands have contracts with garment factories in Bangladesh for their clothing production at very low production prices compared to western manufacturers. Garment industry worker works for an average of 12 hours a day for a monthly salary which varies from 35 to 90 US dollars. According to an international study, only the 2% of the price of an article purchased in the western world goes to the Bangla worker who made it.

Workers at Garment Factory

PANAM City is famous for its unique and fine architectures. Once a small village, known as the Capital of Isa Khan (a ruler of Bengal) it existed during the 15th century and a few memories are still remaining nowadays.

THE SUNDARBANS: UNESCO World Heritage Site

My Tour Operator in Bangladesh

This mangrove forest is one of the largest forests in the world and lies on the delta of 2 rivers: Ganges, Brahmaputra , in the bay of Bengala. The area is known for its wide range of fauna, including 260 bird species, lizards, mudskippers, dolphins, for the Bengal tiger and other threatened species such as the estuarine crocodile and Indian python.

With its variety of trees and wildlife the forest is a showplace of natural history. But it is also a centre of economic activities such as extraction of timber, fishing and honey collection. The forest consists of about 200 islands, separated by about 400 interconnected tidal rivers, creeks and canals.

Sailing in the Sundarbans is pleasant and relaxing. You can enjoy your boat sailing through backwaters canals while admiring the astonishing nature around you.

Honey Collectors

Sundarbans is famous also for its honey.

The most famous is the one obtained from the Kalisha flower, found in the deep interiors of the forest. The peak season of honey collection begins in March and ends beginning of June. The Mawalis (honey collectors) as they are called, often risk their lives to collect honey, victims of tigers, venomous snakes and crocodiles in the muddy waters, all this for an average earning of about 80 Us Dollars for the whole season. Honey picking sounds like a normal rural occupation but here it is perhaps the most dangerous occupation in the world. Honey collectors need to properly cover their face with cloths, otherwise bees could attack. Beehive has to be approached cautiously, using torches made up of leaves to create smoke. The smoke produced forces the bees to fly away and allow the collectors to climb the tree to reach the honey. In the past few years honey collection has fallen so much and the Mawalis are no longer motivated to enter the forest and put their lives at high risk.

COX’S BAZAR

The name Cox’s Bazar derives from Captain Hiram Cox, an officer of the British East Indian Company who was appointed as the superintendent of Palonki (former name) outpost.

A fishing port and tourist destination located along 75 mile stretch of beach. Its beach is considered Cox’s main attraction with an unbroken length of 150 km, also called “the longest natural unbroken sea beach in the world”. A destination for the richest Bangladeshis but recently it has become a hub for foreign humanitarian staff who work here to help in the Rohingya refugee camps.

The Rohingya issue

The Rohingya (Bengalis) are a stateless Muslim minority in Myanmar. Before the displacement, an estimated 1.4 million Rohingya lived in the country. The 2017 exodus, due to the Myanmar violence, brought more than 800 to seek refugee in neighboring Bangladesh. They risked everything to escape a military offensive of local Burma and buddhist mobs, which was described as an “ethnic cleansing”. Cox’s Bazar is the city hosting the main camps for the refugees living in poor conditions but assisted by many w/w Ngos who are helping the community trying to improve their living and health conditions. Refugees are not allowed to work in Bangladesh and cannot leave the camps without the permission of the Government. Other important aspect regards the Rohingya children who have a bleak future with little freedom of movement, inadequate access to education, poverty, serious protection risks and abuse, including child marriage.

SONADIA Island

Located about 7 km from Cox’s, it’s a worthwhile excursion. The western side of the island is sandy; on the northers side there are beds of windowpane oysters (placuna placenta).

During winter time fishermen set up temporary camps on the island and dry their catches of sea fish to sell at the market.

Chittagong Hill Tracks

It’s located in the south eastern part of Bangladesh and includes 3 Hill Districts: Rangamati, Khagrachari and Bandarban. It’s one of the most diverse regions in the country and home to eleven indigenous ethnic groups of Mongolian ancestry which differ from the majority of Bengali people as regards race, language, culture, heritage, religion, political history and economy, and these differences are the cause of permanent conflicts in the region.

To conclude: Bangladesh is a country of luxuriant nature and a thousand smiles: these are the first two impressions you have from a trip in Bangladesh. A unique experience, strong and humanly fascinating, a country with astonishing culture and people.!

“THE WORLD IS A BOOK: THOSE WHO DO NOT TRAVEL IT READ ONLY ONE PAGE”

November 2019

Maha Kumbh Mela 2019, Prayagraj

IMG_8768The Kumbh Mela festival 2019 took place in Prayagraj (once called Allahabad, the Moghul-era name).  The Kumbh Mela is the only event in the world where no invitation or permission is required and is allowed to all faiths, yet millions of pilgrims and visitors gather to celebrate the holy event.  Kumbh Mela has its origin from a legend, describing a battle between gods and demons over the possession of the nectar of eternal life.

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Kumbh means “POT” and Mela means “FAIR”. According to Astrologers the Kumbh Fair takes place based on astrological calculations.  It is celebrated over 4 places in India:

Haridwar on Ganges River  –  Ujjain on Shipra River  –  Nashik on Godavari River and Prayagraj on the Sangam of 3 holy rivers Ganges/Yamuna/Sarasvati

The pilgrimage is celebrated four times over a course of 12 years, this because the battle between gods and demons went on for 12 days, and twelve days for the gods are equivalent to 12 years for humans.   Each 12 years cycle includes the Maha (great) Kumbh Mela at Prayagraj, attended by millions of people, making it the largest faith pilgrimage in the world.  It is also considered as the most significant among all Kumbh fairs held in the other locations as it is source of light and knowledge.

Useless to say that the bathing ritual is the most significant and awe inspiring among all rituals at Kumbh.  Devotees believe that this holy bath cleanses them of all their sins and gain the mystical powers of the Amrit (the nectar of immortality).IMG_8883

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One of the most exciting sights of the festival is the “shahi” or royal procession of the Hindu holy men known as “sadhus”.   Bathing in the sacred waters of the Sangam, where the Ganges, Yamuna and Saraswati rivers meet, is believed to achieve “moksha” or salvation.  There are  normally 3 to 4 days deemed to be particularly auspicious. .  It is believed that in those particular days the water turns into “amrita”, the nectar of immortality.

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The Prayagraj Kumbh Mela attracts visitors from across the world, most of them spend the whole month in a quest for salvation through Yoga and prayers.

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Another prominent part of the festival is the act of donations to the poor and helpless, to the saints and to cows, donations which can vary from basic food or clothing to more precious things.IMG_8859

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For its importance and spiritual values, Kumbh Mela pilgrimage has been inscribed on 2017 Unesco “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity”  list.

……………and when dark falls, a mesmerizing scene will appear in front of your eyes:  hundred of floating lighted lamps on the flowing waters, like twinkling stars, reflecting in the river.  In fact devotees make a “vessel” from leaves on which a lamp made of wheat flour filled with oil and cotton strand is lighted and floated on water as an offering of gratitude towards the holy river.IMG_9842IMG_9840IMG_9841

 

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Kumbh Mela pilgrimage can be summarized in these three sayings:

  • From untruth lead us to Truth
  • From darkness lead us to Light
  • From death lead us to Immortality

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Mongolia: Nomadic by nature

 

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MARCO POLO in 1324 said about Mongolia:

“I DID NOT TELL YOU HALF OF WHAT I SAW, FOR NO ONE WOULD HAVE BELIEVED ME”

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Chinggis Khaan, the founder of the Great Mongolia;  he symbolizes Mongolia’s independence and national identity, playing an important role in shaping the history of Mongolia.

IMG_8496For most of the 20th century Mongolia was isolated for the rest of the world and a sense of remoteness still exists today.  Mongolia is the least densely populated country in the world. It’s is a pristine intact country,  it’s the land of steppe, of blue skies, valleys full of flowers, mountain peaks hidden in the clouds.

IMG_8487It’s aIMG_1080 place where dunes sing, where wild horses freely roam and where nomadic families hospitality has no limit and to understand how far it goes you have to live it personally. IMG_8457

In Mongolia the four seasons have their own colors and peculiarities and astonishing geographical composition.  At the east an endless steppa, in the south the Gobi desert with its bactrian camels wandering in the sand dunes, in the west the mountain peaks and glaciers fill the valleys,  in the north are the most spectacular rivers and lakes, whilst at the centre the large valleys where the first Mongolian State started.

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The Mongolia Ger deserves a special attention as it expresses the Mongolian concept of  symbolism in harmony with nature.   The word “GER” is Mongolian and literally means “Home”.IMG_8250

The Ger symbolizes the Mongolian people: no fences around their gers or they would lose their freedom, no stones or they could lose their connection to nature.IMG_8248

Traditionally ger are extremely mobile and can be set up and set down in a very short time, in more than 1 hour.

IMG_8454The orientation of the Ger is symbolically important to Mongolians:  entrance always faces south towards the sun, north is the most special place for sacred objects and visitors.  West side is the male side where their tools, saddles and hunting kit are stored.  East side is the female side where women sit and where cooking utensils are kept.  Fireplace or stove is in the centre so smoke can exit through the crown of the roof which can be closed during bad weather conditions.IMG_8458

The Gobi desert and flaming Cliffs — The Gobi desert has one of the most unusual desert landscapes with its spectacular singing dunes;  this place made the Gobi desert famous all over the world.  Bayanzag, a must see place,  spreads across 8 km. in a valley, once was an ancient sea floor and site of several remarkable palentology sites.  Wait for the sunset when the cliffs become of a breathtaking color with the red clay almost glowing.IMG_1076VVA_9521

Western Mongolia —  Meet with the Kazakhs, eagle hunters in the Altai region, and experience their way of life while understanding how they hunt with their eagles.VVA_0231

The Kazakhs is Mongolia largest ethnic minority group living in the provinces of Western Mongolia.  Hunting with eagles (called Berkutchi) is a form of falconry practiced here and almost all families are eagle hunters. Hunting takes place only in winter months and female eagles only are used.

IMG_9008Hunting with eagles is a sense of identity.  To western eyes the relationship may seem cruel or cold, but eagles are not considered as pets but working animals and Kazakhs hunters have an incredibly close connection with their eagles, they are virtually considered as family members, as for the other animals!

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…… and when the night falls over the Mongolian countryside, the endless blue sky becomes a stage of bright stars:  your personal light show to watch in a awe!!!!!IMG_1127

 

 

 

 

THE ARCTIC: our Polar Adventure

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Our decision to visit the Svalbard Island and the Arctic Pole dates back a few years.   A destination which is not easy to reach, as many are the things to take into consideration before choosing the more suitable trip.  We did not want this to be a proper cruise, one of those cruises in large comfortable boats which offers you the maximum confort but, on the contrary, because of the size of the boat and the large number of passengers, does not take you in all those spots and angles a small ship would do.IMG_8095
For this reason, after a deep search, our choice went to a small Dutch vessel, the Rembrandt Van Rijn, able to accomodate 27 passengers and only 12 professional crew members.  The ideal boat for us for a sailing ship voyage, reaching numerous fjords, glaciers and visiting amazing places in remote areas.IMG_8101
We will sail along the west and northwest cost of Spitsbergen. We will maKe several different types of excursions (different for length, difficulty and duration), using the zodiacs to reach and land on the shores.IMG_7852
After long flights from our home country, we finally reached the Longyearbyen airport located in the Svalbard Island.  Longyearbyen, the capital city of Svalbard island is located the Isfyorden.  It’s a small village of about 2000 inhabitants, most of them dedicated to tourism activities and island administration.  The small airport  connects the island to Norway, the motherland.  There is no much traffic in the village, most people you meet are tourists who stop for a day or two before embarking or disembarking their cruises.
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Once upon a time the main activity was the coal mines and you can still see tracks of it in the mountain around the village and a statue of a miner in the village center in memory of the many men who worked and died doing this job.
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Here some peculiar things you will find in Longyearbien:

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The day after our arrival in the village, at 4pm we were at Bykaia Port where our ship the Rembrandt Van Rijn was waiting for us to board and start our Polar adventure.  SVA_3649  We were welcome by the captain and all the crew and met those who were going to be our guides, Jordi and Adam,  for the whole period as well as all the other 27 passengers coming from different world countries. After the “Safety and sea” briefing and “Abandon Ship” demonstration we were ready to sail.IMG_7208IMG_8094 2IMG_7205
The first night  was a  very rough sailing night, nevertheless early in the morning we are all up, ready for our breakfast in the small dining room.
After the mandatory briefings on several topics we are ready for our first excursion with the zodiacs, but first comes the dressing ritual which takes quite a long time:  heavy  jumpers, warm trousers, boots, parkas, gloves, wool caps, sunglasses and last but not least the safety vest.  This is how we had to be ready and queue for embarking our zodiacs and leave for the three or four hours excursions:  twice a day morning and afternoon!!!SVL_6416
There are strict regulations to observe living in the boat.  One of these is showing your presence on the boat: hanged on wall close to the zodiacs exit there is a billboard with all passengers name and a magnet closed to each name.  When you go out on excursion you move your magnet in the “Out” space, when you return and enter the boat you have to move the same magnet in the “In” space.  If you forget doing this operation and go straight to your cabin….. your name will be called with loudspeaker to check your presence on boat and asked to rush and move the magnet!!!!!IMG_8211IMG_8015 2
POLAR DAY:    full daylight all around the clock is a new great experience for us, used to our day and night life.  It seems strange but being daylight for the 24 hours seems your daily activities never end and you are spurred to continue on your work.  Morpheus never comes to you!!!  This happens of course from March to October, when you have the total day with no light till the next month of March.  Then it comes the opposite, always nighttime, all day long!IMG_8102IMG_8143
IMG_8131THE GLACIERS:  we had the opportunity to visit and see closely many glaciers, such as the Murraybreen Glacier of great scenic beauty and located at the eastern side of Prince Charles Island;   the Horusund Glacier, considered to be the largest one; the Smeerenbugbreen  located in the same fjord in the NW corner;  the Gullybreen glacier in the Magdalena fjord; the 14th of July glacier, name that pays homage to the French National Day and located in the Krossfjord.FullSizeRenderIMG_8022
THE ANIMALS:  Many are the animals you  come across during this trip.  Apart from the Polar Bear, which deserves a special top place in the list, we saw the beautiful reindeer and my mind went immediately to Father Christmas and his sleigh and asking to myself:  “which one  of the 9 reindeers will be that one?  maybe Dasher or Vixen or Rudolph???    We also see seals, walrus,  foxes and many many birds of all species, some of them never seen before as they are endemic in the region_N8V5566-Edit.IMG_8096IMG_8126IMG_8128IMG_8147 2IMG_8136IMG_8097IMG_8137
HIS MAJESTY THE POLAR BEAR:   The view of a female polar bear and her cub creates excitement on the ship.  It’s 2 o’clock at night, we are all sleeping in our cabins when Jordi, our guide, gives the announcement on the loudspeaker:  “Polar bear in the mountain left to our ship…..  please come on the deck”  In less then a minute we are all ready, dressed up someway, with our pajamas under the trousers and parkas ready with our binoculars to see the “scope of our cruise”. IMG_8100    Meanwhile the crew prepare and launch the zodiacs so that we can board and go closer to these lovely creatures.  We stopped sometime to admire them, shoot as many photos as possible.  After a while the female and her baby decide to jump in the cold water, probably searching for something to eat for breakfast!!!   What a lovely experience, we went back to our boat and our cabin but we could not go back to sleep because excited to see and share the photos we took of this lovely white creature!!!IMG_8099IMG_7847

 

NY ALESUND:  it’s a cloudy raining afternoon when we disembark in Ny Alesund  a small village in Kongsfjord, one of the most important places for the exploration of the North Pole.  What is now an international research base, started as a coal mine settlement till 1962 when a serious mining accident happened in the mine killing many workers.  From that came the decision to close definitely the mining activity.    One main road leads you from the small port to the village and from the village square you can reach the 1926-28 airship mast used during the Norge/Italian airship expedition to fly over the North Pole.SQL_4838SVA_3889IMG_8138IMG_8072SVA_3918IMG_8140
THE ICE CATEGORIES:  Sea Ice and Icebergs    Ice comes into many forms and shapes.  Could be Glaciers, Icebergs, Pack ice or Multi year ice.   The DRIFT ICE  is so called when sea water freezes forming the polar ice cap; it ‘s a floating platform and not anchored which roams floating following the sea currents.   FAST ICE  is the ice anchored to the coast or in small lakes or bay.  It does not move but melts and forms again in the same place.  In the Arctic region you can find all these kind of situations.SVA_3032_N8V6473-EditSVA_3059IMG_7964IMG_7955IMG_7945IMG_7953

This Arctic Polar trip is,  together with the Antarctic Expedition, the most interesting experiences I had in my life.  Similar as tours but completely different in landscapes, nature, animals.IMG_7989IMG_8006 2IMG_7970IMG_7927IMG_8013FullSizeRender 2

I close my article with a  quote of  Jean Baptiste Charcot :

“Where does the strange attraction of the polar region lie, so powerful, so gripping that on one’s return from them one forgets all weariness of body and soul and dreams only of going back?  Where does the extraordinary charm of these deserted and terrifying regions lie?  “

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Malaysia : Truly Asia!! Selamat Datang!

IMG_6145When you talk about Malaysia, you think of Kuala Lumpur and when you think of Kuala Lumpur soon the  Petronas Twin Towers come to your mind.IMG_5937

Malaysia is an amazing country to discover with prehistoric rainforests and a melting pot of cultures.  Consisting of two regions separated by the South China sea: Peninsular Malaysia and East Malaysia located in the north part of Borneo. Malaysia is a multi ethnic, multi religions federation of 13 states and 3 federal territories.FullSizeRender

Kuala Lumpur, also known by locals as KL,  is the capital of Malaysia, with boasting gleaming skyscrapers, colonial architecture and many natural attractions.  It is divided into numerous districts, but the main one is the Golden Triangle.   KL  main attraction is of course the Petronas  Twin  Towers, but also the Batu Caves, Sultan Abdul Samed Building and the National Monument are worthwhile visiting.   And for the shopaholics a must visit are the Pavillion and Suria KLCC shopping malls.FullSizeRender (5)IMG_6503

The Petronas Twin Towers,  called in local language “Menara Petronas” are located in KL city center, they  are 452 mt. high and considered the tallest twin towers in the world.  The 88 storey chrome and steel towers are joined at the 41st and 42nd floors (175 mt above street level) by a 58 mt long double decker sky bridge.IMG_5935IMG_6536

A view from above:  Set on level 86 there is the Petronas observation desk where you can get a close up view of the tower’s spire as well as an exhibit of the tower’s history.FullSizeRender (4)

From the double deck skybridge you can enjoy amazing views of the city.IMG_6523

Just outside the Petronas there is a beautiful park ideal for jogging, walking paths and water fountains and relax before having a drink or dinner in one of many restaurants in the area.FullSizeRender

The Batu Caves are located 11 km. north of Kuala Lumpur.  Is a 400 million year old limestone hill best known as the place of the annual Hindu festival of Thaipusam.  The celebrations, which take place at the end of January, attract thousand of visitors who come to see the colorful spectacle of devotees, making it one of the largest gatherings in the world.FullSizeRender (3)FullSizeRenderIMG_6699

Sultan Abdul Samad Building  is one of the city’s most important tourist attractions and also an historical landmark in the city.  The Building, once the Secretariat for the Colonial British Administration, features strong gothic, western and moorish style influences with imposing porch, arches and colonnades.  Nowadays home to several Ministry Offices and used as location for Annual Independence Day parade.IMG_6755

But if you are tired of the city and  looking for a jungle escape, get on a car and drive to  the Taman Negara National Park (originally named King George V National Park) which is considered the oldest rainforest in the world estimated to be 1300 years. The abundance and diversity of nature is phenomenal being one of world most rich ecosystems.IMG_6793

Located at 4 hours drive from Kuala Lumpur plus 3 hours boat,  Taman Negara is the best place to have a natural forest experience.  There are many activities to do in the park, such as: day and/or night walking excursions under guide accompaniment, fishing, river cruises, rafting and canopy walks in 510 mt long suspension bridges between tree tops, where you can enjoy spectacular views at 45 mt. height.FullSizeRenderIMG_6812FullSizeRender (2)IMG_6808

The SABAH region is located in the Borneo Island, bordering with Sarawak, it is known also as “the land below the wind”.  It’s landscape is a mix of thick jungle, sun-kissed lands, towering mountains and undulating valleys.   It’s capital city, Kota Kinabalu, is a friendly city and offers a variety of places to visit.  Among those, the Mount Kinabalu National Park.  Mount Kinabalu is considered the highest peak in South East Asia, 4,095 mt.   The Park itself  offers nice trekkings for the  nature and bird watching lovers.

In the heart of Batang Ali Lake, in the SARAWAK region, we pay visit to the IBAN people, a community known for being headhunters in past times.  The IBAN is the largest tribe in Sarawak.  We are invited in their longhouse which is located along the lake.  In fact, many factors are taken into consideration when choosing a site where to build a longhouse: water, farmland, transportation and jungle resources.IMG_7097IMG_7098

Longhouses are traditional dwellings to almost 150 people and may contain thirty family rooms. The RUAI is the long covered gallery that runs the length of a longhouse and is the place where family members gather to do some works or simply to have a chat together outside their private rooms.IMG_7099

The TUAI RUMAH is the head of the longhouse. We are introduced to him as soon as we enter the longhouse and we are offered with a traditional drink called Tuak, a sort of alcoholic drink made from rice.FullSizeRender (1)

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We gave him our gifts (biscuits and dried food) which were later distributed to each family member living in the longhouse.  In return, they danced for us  traditional welcome dances  in their local costumes and we were asked to join the dance.

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Our local Guide, together with IBAN ladies, cooked lunch for us using one of the family’s fire.  We had roast chicken, rice and vegetable, fruits and tea to end our meal.  We all sit in the kitchen floor together with other family members and enjoyed our food very  much.IMG_7103

The Semenggok – Orang Utan   wildlife Center is the biggest rehabilitation center in Sarawak  to host wild injured Orang Utan or any adult or adolescent who need particular care.  Currently there are about 25 Orang Utans living in the forest within the nature reserve and they return to the Center at the feeding time.  This is the best opportunity to see them close, hanging and swinging on tree branches, mums and babies playing while eating their food.  Semenggok  has now become also a center for the study of Orang Utan (literally: “person of the forest”) biology and behaviour.

MALAYSIA:  a country of fascinating contrasts, worthwhile visiting,  in one word: Astonishing !!!

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I want to close quoting these words of a famous past times traveller Ibn Battuta:

“TRAVELING – IT LEAVES YOU SPEECHLESS, THEN TURNS YOU INTO A STORYTELLER”